Blog Posts

Pergola lighting helps create visual points of focus within the structure. This can come in a variety of forms, whether it’s up-lighting alongside the stone pillars or hanging lights above your outdoor dining table. Pergolas are like extensions to a home’s living space. They provide a covered place outdoors for entertaining guests for a dinner party or just a quiet evening with the family.

During the daytime, the open roof of a pergola allows natural daylight to peek through. Pergola lighting complements this natural light, especially on cloudy days when an extra boost is needed.

As the sun sets, pergola lighting helps extend your space use. You can safely access amenities in this area—the outdoor kitchen, for instance—and entertain guests even as nighttime falls.

Soft lighting can add a unique and warm ambiance to a pergola structure. This glow creates a cozy atmosphere that is inviting to others and makes it a magical place to spend an evening. With the roofline of pergolas, these structures make the perfect canvas for outdoor lighting. What homeowners need to consider is which style of pergola lighting best fits their structure and needs.

4 Ways to Light Pergolas: Enhancing Functionality and Allure
Here are 4 ways we like to light pergolas to enhance their functionality and allure!

1. Bistros bring a sense of occasion to any outdoor living, especially pergolas. They create an environment that is warm and welcoming. Hanging restaurants inside of a pergola not only provides you with a soft ambiance, they also bring function to your pergola. As the days get shorter, we lose time in our outdoor space due to the sun going down. Adding bistros gives your back that “daylight” we lose as fall approaches. They allow you to use your outdoor space far longer than before. Bistros, or string lights, are one of the easiest ways to add life to your pergola.
2. Downlights are a simple way to light up the area beneath a pergola. If you have a dining or sitting area in your pergola, downlights are the perfect way to bring light to the space without the feeling of a spotlight shining down. Downlights are fixed up in the crevasses of the top of the pergola, casting a soft, moonlight glow over the space. This fixture has the ability to be dimmed which allows you to choose the mood of each occasion.
3. Star lighters are the perfect way to bring a magical feel to your pergola. This lighting fixture is designed with small openings so the light can shine through, casting a “starlit” scene on and around a pergola. They also cast light from the bottom of the fixture, creating functional light for the space. Star lighters are a great lighting fixture to bring ambiance and functionality to any pergola!
4. If you have a steel pergola, we are able to place lighting directly into the beams of the pergola. We are able to do this by cutting into the steel using a magnetic drill. This drill magnetizes directly to the beam of the pergola, allowing us to drill holes exactly where we want the lighting fixture to be placed. These small, round fixtures are then recessed up into the steel frame, leaving a seamless finish. This technique is great for those with a dining or sitting area under their steel pergola. Recessed soffit lights cast a soft light over the area, making the space more accommodating to both you and your guests in the dark evenings!

Are you one of those people that relies on a standby generator to back up the power to your homes
during potential power outages? Just like the engine in your car, your home generator requires regular
attention and maintenance to make sure it works when you need it to. We’ve outlined a few things you
can do to maintain your generator below.

Regardless of whether you have an electric generator or a diesel generator, your generator system
should run a test cycle at least once a week for roughly 20 minutes. This cycle will happen at the same
time every week after you set the day and time, and is a vital part of preventative maintenance for your
generator. If no alarms or warnings are present, you’re good to go!

About once a month and after any time your generator has run for an extended period, you should look
to make sure that:

1. The unit and its surroundings are clear of debris and there are no rodents or other pests
   trying to make a home out of your generator.
2. Check the oil level of your unit. This should only be done when the unit isn’t running. If it’s time to check the oil, but your unit has been actively running, wait at least 10 minutes after shutting it down before checking the oil level.
3. Check that the coolant levels are where they need to be.
4. If it’s a diesel generator, check the fuel level and the fuel/water separators. Be sure to drain water and add more fuel as appropriate.
5. Inspect the battery and its housing for any signs of corrosion or leakage. Make sure to check there are no loose wires and that the terminals and wiring are both free of any damage or wear-and-tear. Lastly, take the time to verify that the battery charger is working as intended.

While there are indeed plenty of things you can do on your own time to increase the life expectancy of your generator, some of the more dangerous and complicated aspects of maintaining your unit are best left to the professional technicians at CMC Service Experts. When you schedule your generator maintenance with us, we take care of many for you, like:

1. Changing the oil and oil filter
2. Changing the air and fuel filters
3. Replacing the spark plugs
4. Fuel testing
5. Flushing the cooling system as needed
6. Inspecting the battery, cables, and other wirings throughout your unit

If you troubleshoot and discover that the cause is more complicated than you can handle yourself, trying to fix a complex electrical problem by yourself may lead to more problems and cost you more money in the long run. Dead electrical outlets can be caused by various complications, such as tripped circuit breakers, faulty receptacles, or blown fuses.

After you go through the proper troubleshooting steps and you discover that the problem needs the attention of the experts, it is necessary for you to call a trusted electrical contractor who will
respond to your call quickly so you can avoid having more problems.

Here are some tips on troubleshooting dead electrical outlets:
On a circuit breaker, there are many things that can happen that can lead to a dead electrical outlet. Some of the things you need to check on include checking whether the circuit has tripped or if there is a fuse that has blown. You may have an older circuit panel or fuse box. If you find that there is a blown fuse, it will be very easy for you to fix the problem. All you will have to do is simply replace the fuse.

It is easy to figure out whether or not the fuse is blown by inspecting it. Most blown fuses will resist passage of current through them, so you can be sure about the integrity of a fuse by measuring the continuity using a voltmeter. If you have a more modern circuit panel, you will have circuit breakers instead of fuses. If the circuit breaker has tripped, just reset it. Turning it on should solve the problem.

When a device is plugged into an electrical outlet it should fit and stay in place. If you plug something into the outlet and it fails to fit, then the cause of the dead electrical circuit can be the outlet.

If a plugged in appliance or device does not stay in place, then the receptacle may have worn out. The best way to fix this problem is to buy a new outlet and repair it. There are different types of electrical outlets available on the market, so it is necessary for you to look for reliable outlets in order to avoid repeat problems.

If you suspect several electrical outlets in your home are faulty or dead, then you will need to inspect them for signs of fault. For example, a bad outlet can become discolored or scorched because of the failure.

Sometimes you can suspect the outlets are faulty because they will become too hot when functioning. In this case, you need to know exactly which socket is having problems. To find out, plug a lamp into each of the outlets and note those that are functioning properly and those that will fail to light the lamp. If several outlets show signs of wearing out, then replacing all of them at once may be appropriate so you can avoid them all failing one after the other and causing you more hassle in the long run.

It can be difficult to know exactly whether it’s the outlet that is broken rather than the device you are using to test the outlet. The best thing to do is to use a few different devices to check your outlets to avoid false results.

Usually, if your smoke detector is chirping, the batteries have gone bad. The chirping is a built-in
warning system to let you know to change out the batteries. Although this is most often the
cause, there can be other reasons for an incessant chirp.
All homes typically have one of two smoke alarm types: battery-powered or hardwired. The difference between the two systems isn’t whether it is battery powered, as the names might
imply, but rather if the sensors throughout your home (as you need more than one) are
interconnected through hard wiring or not. Even if you have hardwired alarms, it’s likely that
each unit requires batteries as a contingency for power outages.
There are several reasons that your fire alarm will chirp from time to time. The most common
reasons are:
● Battery isn’t properly installed: If your battery is only partially in, the terminals might
not be connected properly, causing chirping.
● Battery pull tab hasn’t been removed: Even with a hardwired alarm system, you’ll need
to remove the battery pull tab, allowing your device to use the batteries as backup in
case of a power outage.
● Battery drawer isn’t closed: If you don’t fully close the battery drawer after installing or
replacing a battery, your alarm will chirp to get your attention.
● Low battery: The most common cause is low battery. The chirp just means that you need
to put in a new battery.
Regardless of what the actual source of the chirping is, there are a few main steps to take to
identify and replace your battery:

1. Locate the alarm that is chirping: Although some apartments and small homes will have
   only one or two alarms, larger homes are required to have multiple alarms and you’ll
   want to make sure you address the source of the issue.
2. Access the battery drawer: Due to the wiring harness and confusing connections, it is
   not recommended to remove the alarm completely, but just that battery. If you can
   maneuver the alarm enough to fully access the battery drawer, that should be enough to
   switch out the battery.
3. Open the battery drawer and remove the battery: By fully removing the battery, you
   will be able to check for the pull tab to confirm it has been removed.
4. Reinstall the current battery: Try putting the current battery back in while confirming
   that it is in properly with all the terminals connecting. After the battery is back in, wait a
   little bit to see if chirping resumes before putting your alarm back in its bracket. If the
   chirping has stopped, the battery was probably loose or the drawer wasn’t fully closed.
5. Replace the battery: If the chirping continues, it’s time to replace the battery. Upon
   replacing, make sure that you close the drawer completely and that the battery is
   installed securely. We recommend that you schedule a battery replacement for your
   detectors annually. In addition, manufacturers recommend a complete replacement of
   all your detectors after ten years.
   With a hardwired system, it’s important to realize that you probably have battery backups
   located inside your alarms and you’ll need to replace them from time to time. Unlike
   unconnected alarms, you can’t just pull them down and replace the batteries. You’ll have to
   maneuver the unit to access the battery.
   However, if your hardwired smoke alarm doesn’t have a battery backup, there are other steps
   that should be taken:
6. Take the individual chirping unit down: After shutting off the circuit breaker, take the
   individual unit down, remove the battery backup (if it has one), then hold the test
   button down for 15 seconds. This should reset your alarm and stop the chirping. Keep in
   mind that different brands may have different reset methods, so it’s best to refer to the manufacturer’s recommendations for resetting your specific alarm unit.
7. Clean out the unit: Dust and other household debris can get into your alarm units and
   cause issues with their delicate sensors. Use canned air or a small brush to clean out the
   smoke alarms.
8. Replace your unit: If you’ve tried replacing batteries, resetting, and cleaning out your
   unit and there is still a chirp, you might need to replace the smoke alarm.

In our modern world, it’s easy to take certain things for granted. And one of the easiest things to take for
granted is the invisible force that powers virtually everything in your home: electricity. Since electricity has become such an integral part of everyday life, it’s easy not to think much about it —
until it becomes unavailable. A sudden loss of electricity, otherwise known as a power outage, can
negatively affect everything from working to cooking to being able to see at night.
The worldwide electricity power grid is robust in most populated areas, designed to withstand the
physical elements and human errors that can potentially shut down the system. While this works most of
the time, sometimes the system fails and the power goes out.
Get ready to learn everything you need to know about power outages, from how and where they most
often occur to what you can do to help mitigate their effects.

Power outages are what occur when electricity — particularly the electrical power network, or electrical
grid — is unavailable. There are many different causes for power outages, but the thing they all have in
common is that they affect whole areas or regions, not just a single home.
Why? Because the outage stems from the electricity supplier not within the home. If a home is without
power but the rest of the neighborhood is receiving electricity, there’s likely a circuit breaker issue or
some other household problems.

There are many causes for why power outages occur. However, the three most common causes are
natural causes, human error, and overload.
Basically, any interruption between power generation and the supply of electricity to homes can cause a
power outage. It can stem from inclement weather conditions, human error, equipment failure, and even
animal interference. Scheduled maintenance can also cause a power outage, though this is usually
communicated to households in advance by the utility company.

Most power outages don’t last very long, with many ending seconds or minutes after beginning.
However, sometimes outages can last a very long time, even several weeks.
Since some power outages are caused by lightning or violent wind storms, power lines can become
damaged and lead to long delays when restoring power. Extended outages impact entire communities
and can even affect the economy when power is unavailable to large areas of the population. For
example, the Northeast blackout of 2003 left 50 million people without power from New York to
Canada’s capital Ottawa.

A blackout is a complete loss of power to an area. This is the most severe type of power outage, typically
affecting large numbers of people over sometimes incredibly large areas. Blackouts usually result from
major damage to electrical generation facilities (such as structural damage from violent wind storms or
lightning strikes) and are particularly difficult to fix quickly — this is why these types of outages can last
for several weeks in the worst-case scenarios.

Brownouts typically occur if there is a drop in electrical voltage or a drop in the overall electrical power
supply. The term for these types of outages derives from the dimming that happens to lights when the
voltage sags. While brownouts do not cause a complete loss of power, they can cause poor equipment
performance, and some devices — such as hair dryers or electric ovens — may not operate with the
lowered voltage during one of these outages.

A permanent fault is a sudden loss of power typically caused by a power line fault. These are simple and
easy to deal with: once the fault is removed or repaired, power is automatically restored. This type of
outage typically doesn’t affect large areas as it tends to trip up lines that are further down the supply line
to homes. While larger blackouts and brownouts are caused by problems in the generation, this is
caused by problems in the supply mechanism, which are usually easy to find and simple to fix.
Rolling blackouts are much different from the other three as they are planned power outages. These are
usually implemented in areas with unstable grids or with infrastructure that cannot handle the
population it serves. Rolling blackouts can also be caused if there’s not enough fuel to run power at full
capacity, whether for the short term or long term.

Power outages are most likely to occur during storms, especially violent weather events that involve high
winds, scorching temperatures, or freezing rain. Certain outages, such as rolling blackouts and
brownouts, happen when there’s not enough power to run the grid. This can happen when renewables
are used without a backup generation source for when there is only intermittent power available. That
said, it is more likely happens to areas that lack the infrastructure to serve a highly-populated area.
With improving technology, power outages are becoming less frequent and not as lengthy as a
percentage of total consumer usage. However, by sheer numbers they are occurring more frequently
than ever before and sometimes they can still last for several days or even weeks, especially if natural
disasters strike.

If you experience a power outage, alert your electricity provider as soon as you can. Many providers are
now equipped with digital systems to automatically detect power outages, but some still rely on
customer notifications to find and deal with blackouts and other types of breakdowns in the electrical
supply.

There are a multitude of lighting fixtures to suit a variety of personal styles and budgets.
Hallway fixtures can include wall sconces, flush mount ceiling lights, pendant lights and even led
strip lighting. Read on for some helpful hallway lighting placement tips. You can also click the
photos to be brought to our website and browse recommended fixtures for hallway lighting.
Sometimes a hallway’s narrow dimensions or architecture doesn’t allow for wall sconces, but
you can splurge on a dramatic pendant light if the ceiling is high enough. Be sure to measure
both the light fixture itself as well as your floor to ceiling height before purchasing a pendant for
your hallway. If a pendant is too long, try a flush-mounted ceiling light instead.

A good rule of thumb is to hang a pendant light 8 feet above the floor. In addition to making
sure your very tall Uncle Ted doesn’t bump his head on the light, also mind whether you have
doors in the way that swing out toward the fixture. Even so, don’t be afraid to install a dramatic
light fixture in this area to make a memorable statement for your home.

Another option for hallways with low ceilings is to install recessed ceiling light fixtures. This
creates additional flexibility — especially important for children and adults who often visit the
bathroom at night. The ceiling-mounted fixtures can also be set up on a dimmer control system
to allow for navigation that does not disturb the remainder of the household.

Another option for hallways with low ceilings is to install recessed ceiling light fixtures. This
creates additional flexibility — especially important for children and adults who often visit the
bathroom at night. The ceiling-mounted fixtures can also be set up on a dimmer control system
to allow for navigation that does not disturb the remainder of the household.

Wall sconces are a design tool as well as a visual cue. We gauge our location as well as our
destination by following “mile markers” within our line of sight. A trail of wall sconces can be
used to pinpoint doorways as well. As always, one must measure the dimensions of the wall
sconce and the width of the hallway to ensure that the sconce will not jut out too far
Cove lighting technique that directs light toward the ceiling from one or more sides of a room to
diffuse illumination. Cove lighting is found in ledges, recesses, ceiling valences and high on
walls. This type of indoor lighting is popular because the fixture itself cannot be seen, creating a
dramatic effect. The light can then be directed either up toward the ceiling or down creating a
wall washing effect.

If your hallway is also an art gallery, consider picture lighting. Picture lights are typically
wall-mounted fixtures created to beautifully illuminate individual artworks. Characteristically
used with very low-wattage lamps, they provide a relationship with a piece of art, as well as
allowing you to view details of the work up close and personal. In addition to their obvious
function, picture lights are also decorative fixtures. On Louie Lighting, you’ll find a great
selection of attractive and subtle picture lights to choose from. Line voltage and low voltage
options, fixtures that mount directly to the painting’s frame, track lights, as well as energy
saving fixtures are all available. Contact a lighting designer with experience in lighting artwork
to avoid glare and ensure that artwork is not damaged.

Entry points and pathways within the home typically require nothing more than ambient or
general lighting, unless there are focal points you wish to highlight, such as artwork or
architectural details that need additional accent lighting. If you have a small hallway it may be
sufficiently lighted by a single ceiling-mounted or recessed fixture. In contrast, a hallway with
vaulted ceilings or a staircase may require a chandelier with lighting controls at both the bottom
and top of the stairs, step lights, AND accent lighting.

Updating an old home often means bringing electrical equipment up to code. Nowhere is this
truer than in bathrooms, laundry rooms, and kitchens, where a GFCI outlet is mandatory.
Fortunately, installing a GFCI outlet is a fairly simple task that shouldn’t take you more than 15
minutes.

GFCI stands for Ground-fault circuit interrupter. These outlets contain a circuit breaker that will
cut off the flow of electricity if there is a ground fault or if it detects a current leak. This protects
you from electrocution or electric shock. It also keeps the entire circuit from tripping.
These are required for countertop receptacles in kitchens, bathroom outlets, or laundry
rooms near water sources. Likewise, 15A and 20A receptacles located outside or within
unfinished parts of a building, such as your garage, must also have GFCI protection. This also
includes outlets installed in crawl spaces or unfinished attics.

They are not necessary if the outlet is not easily accessible. For example, a ceiling-mounted
outlet in the garage does not need GFCI protection. Another exception to the rule is if you are
running a circuit specifically for a dedicated device, such as a sump pump in your basement.
The process is nearly the same as installing a normal outlet. However, there are a few additional
testing steps required to make sure the GFCI features are functioning properly

Step 1: Turn Off the Power
Before beginning any electrical work, you should turn off the power at the circuit breaker or
fuse box. Make sure nobody else unexpectedly turns it on. Use a voltage tester on the outlet
you’ll be replacing to ensure that the power is off.

Step 2: Take Out the Old Outlet
Use a screwdriver to take out the screws on the wall plate. In an older house, you might need to
bring along a utility knife to pry off the plate if it had been painted over. With the plate
removed, proceed to unscrew the outlet from the wall box.

Pull the outlet out carefully and detach the wires. Discard the old outlet or place it somewhere
out of the way. Make sure you don’t sit or step on it and scratch your wood floors as I have in
the past.

Step 3: Prepare the Wires
Straighten out the wires. This would be a good time to trim them down if needed, as GFCIs take
up more space in the wall box. You may want to set the outlet in place to get an idea of how
much space you’ll have left. Use wire strippers to leave about an inch of bare lead on the ends.
If you have old cloth-covered wires or the sheathing is crumbling away now is a good time to
wrap the wires in electrical tape to prevent potential fires.

Separate the wires carefully to ensure they are not touching. Now you can turn the power back
on and proceed to test the wires to determine which is the hot/lead and which is neutral in
case the old wires are not color-coded. Typically black will be hot and white will be neutral.
Using your voltage tester, place the probe on what you think is the hot wire. If it lights up then
move it to the white/other wire. This wire should not cause the voltage tester to light up.
Mark your wires accordingly and turn the power back off.

Step 4: Install the New Outlet
Take a look at your GFCI outlet. You should see three screws: brass, silver, and green. The hot
black wire you identified will connect to the brass screw, while the white line wire you identified
goes to the silver screw. Green is always ground. If you have an old house without a ground wire
you can skip this part and the outlet will still function normally.

Loosen the terminal screws on the outlet enough to allow the wire leads to enter, and then
screw them down. Ensure that no bare wires touch or come into contact with any metal in the
area.

From there, all you need to do is place the outlet back into the box and screw it in. Push the
outlet gently, you may want to reach in and pinch the wires to help them bend and fit inside the
wall box. Don’t forget to attach the new wall plate.

Step 5: Test the New Outlet
The whole point of a GFCI is to have adequate protection, so you’re going to need to make sure
that protection is working correctly.

Turn the power back on and head back to the outlet. GFCIs have two buttons, a “test” and
a “reset” button. If there is a fault or short circuit, the reset button will pop out and need to be
pressed back in. If there is still a fault, this button will stay extended.

The test button will create a brief short circuit, enough to trip the breaker inside the outlet.
Press the test button and the reset button should pop out. Press the reset button back in, and it
should stay put.

If the test and reset buttons work properly then the connections are good to go and you can
step back, admire your work, and pat yourself on the back. If they don’t then it’s likely you have
a loose connection somewhere so you’ll need to turn the power off and go back over your
connections.

The purpose of a circuit breaker panel is to connect wires from the utility company with those
comprising your home’s internal electrical system.
As electricity flows to your house, it passes through the meter, the supply system, and your
circuit breaker panel wiring. At the place where the electric lines enter the panel, one primary
circuit (connected to the power grid) splits into subsidiary circuits.
Circuit breakers are switches that automatically shut off an overloaded circuit to prevent fires,
electrocutions, and other serious dangers caused by improperly contained or maintained
electricity.
Do you always seem to be flipping breaker switches (or replacing) fuses because of circuit
overloads? Are your outlets warm to the touch, or do they show burn marks? Do the lights in
your home sometimes flicker or flash off and on?
If so, it might be that your electrical system is carrying too high a load for the increased usage
common to most households today.
It may be time to upgrade your panel. And if you still have a fuse box, you should give serious
thought to replace it with a circuit breaker panel.
The owners of single-family homes are responsible for all issues related to the electric service
panel. However, most of them will need help determining when a service upgrade and replacing
the circuit breaker panel are in order.
The age of the breakers is also important to know. The life expectancy of breakers is 25-30
years, which is also the same for your panel. It is important to know how old your panel is.
The vast majority of homeowners should never even think about replacing a circuit breaker
panel as a DIY project. A panel replacement exposes the person doing it to potentially deadly
voltage levels.
You should know that this job calls for at least one professional electrician. The cost to replace a
circuit breaker panel runs from roughly $800 to over $3,000, depending on the various factors
that come into play. Electricians can run into unforeseen problems or obstacles.
Once you have selected an electrician you are comfortable working with, they and you will both
have to do some preparation before the work can begin.
The best location for a new circuit breaker panel is determined by factors such as:
● Close to kitchens and other heavy load areas
● Preferably not in bathrooms (a practice often barred by municipal codes)
● In a reachable area of a spacious room
● No obstacles preventing easy access
● A well-illuminated area
Service panels are often located in garages or basements or under stairways. However, note
that there is no problem having a panel in an open space in the main living area. Keeping it out
of sight is a matter of preference.
We highly recommend consulting with an electrician before making a final decision about
where to place the electrical panel. There are mitigating technical factors that should be taken
into account.
The electrician can request an electrical permit from the relevant municipality. They need to
schedule an inspection by the appropriate government agency, utility company, or other
organization.
The power to your home will be shut off by your utility company early in the morning, so be
sure to prepare for a half to a full day without electrical power. For example, if you work at
home using a computer, find an alternative like a nearby cafe.
Once the work is over, the designated inspector may have to check the installation work to
ensure it is up to code. If everything looks good, the utility company will turn your power back
on.
No one selects an electrical panel for their home based on personal taste or the panel’s visual
appeal. You choose a circuit breaker panel based on the amount and intensity of electrical
power your household consumes.
The size of your circuit breaker panel tells you how many electrical appliances or fixtures can
run simultaneously. If you live in an all-electric home, you will need a larger panel.
If the structure uses a combination of electricity and gas, a smaller one should do. Don’t forget,
either, that the appliances you use can make a difference in your panel’s usage.
Residential main breaker panels are available in four sizes, 100 amps, 200 amps, 225 amps, and
400 amps. Follow these steps to determine what size breaker box you need and round up your
total amperage number to the nearest panel size.
Unless you foresee adding more energy-consuming household appliances or fixtures, this is how
to know the right size for the panel. Note that if your circuit breaker is rated at 20 amps, it
should only use 16 amps.
Amperage and voltage both refer to the strength of an electrical current. Where voltage is a
the measure of the pressure that allows electrons to flow, amperage is the electrons’ volume.
You should know the amperage capacity for your home when choosing either a new circuit
breaker panel or a circuit breaker panel replacement. If your home uses 150 amps of electricity,
for instance, the breaker panel should be able to handle 150 or more amps.
However, circuit breakers that provide only 100 to 150 amps are more common in today’s
homes. That’s why many homeowners have converted to 200-amp service. Not to mention,
doing so increases home value.
Replacing the circuit breaker panel should bring some positive changes to your home and the
life you enjoy there. You can expect not to see any more unexpected flickering lights or feel
nervous when unplugging something from an electrical outlet.

Is Insteon going out of business?

           According to reports, Insteon has gone out of business and has abruptly shut down all of its cloud services. The Insteon app makes use of Insteon servers to process requests, but the app proves to be worthless. Schedules, for example, are stored on the hub and will continue to be processed.

But it is not all doom and gloom. One of Insteon’s most fascinating characteristics was its ability to interact with other systems.

           So, questions like what are the best alternatives to the Insteon Hub home automation platform? What hub works with Insteon?; and Which home automation is the best? Will be answered in this article!

As previously stated, any type of factory reset on the Insteon hub should be avoided. The Insteon PLM Serial Modem was formerly a popular alternative to the Insteon Hub. This provides you with an RJ45 connector to connect to the Insteon system’s powerline connections.

While this is a viable option, it appears that the product has been withdrawn. Unfortunately, shady eBay merchants have jacked up the price of these items to hundreds of dollars.

Universal Devices’ ISY994 is a popular choice for controlling Insteon devices. This necessitated the purchase of the PLM modem, which still is not suggested at this time.

The options below rely on the hub’s local API and do not require the PLM modem module.

There are some alternatives to the Insteon Hub. So Which home automation is the best?

There are two popular alternatives to consider:

           You may ask does Insteon work with a home assistant? The answer is yes!!

Home Assistant is a free and open-source home automation software that focuses on local management and privacy. It is designed to be a central control system for smart home devices. This requires a local computer/server, although it may be done with inexpensive devices like the Raspberry Pi 4 (if stock is available) or various NAS devices like Synology and Terameter. Voice support for Alexa and Google is accessible through a subscription service called Nabu Casa from the Home Assistant developer group, as well as Amazon and Google skill support.

Homeseer is a commercial alternative to Home Assistant that, like Home Assistant, requires a specific device to run. You may get dedicated Homeseer hubs as well. To link your Insteon devices, you’ll need an Insteon software plugin. The HomeSeer HomeTroller Plus appears to be a pretty good choice, but of course, depends on your needs for HomeSeer. The HomeTroller Pi is now unavailable in all stores.

So, what is the best home automation software? Or Which home automation is the best?

For Windows PCs, one of the greatest smart home software is Domoticz. When it comes to matching their gadgets with software, compatibility is one of the most key factors to consider. You cannot talk about home automation without mentioning Calais either.

Normally, it is recommended to get a Raspberry Pi and utilize it as a specialized Home Assistant server, but they do not seem to be in stock right now. One problem with this solution is that you will want your Windows PC running all the time, and electricity prices are now absurd. So, until you can buy an RPi, this may be a temporary answer. The quickest and easiest approach to get things up and running on Windows is to use Home Assistant Windows Portable (HassWP). All of the prerequisites, including Python, are already installed.

All you have to do now is:

1. Save HassWP.zip to your computer.

2. Unpack

3. Run Hass.cmd (if you do not have extensions enabled, it will just be Hass.cmd).

Everything will auto-install when you run Hass, and Home Assistant will open in your browser with a local IP address like 127.0.0.1:8123.

1. After that, you will need to register an account and go through the setup process.

2. Home Assistants should automatically detect suitable devices on the network.

3. If Insteon is not found to be automatic:

4. Go to Configuration –> Devices and Services –> Add Integration: Insteon and add Insteon.

5. Locate the hub’s IP address (I use an Advanced IP scanner), which should be labeled as Smart labs ink, and the username and password are on the hub’s bottom sticker.

6. In the event that any devices are missing, you can:

• Select the Services tab in Developer Tools.

• In the pop-up box, utilize the following options:

• Insteon service: Add all links

• Select the Call Service button • Go to the device (within 3 minutes) and press the Settings button (or press and hold – it varies per device – check the instructions) • More information here

other questions that arise are:

Is Insteon compatible with Z Wave?

           Insteon, on the other hand, employs backward and forward-compatible State link instructions. While certain Insteon devices may be used without a hub for basic functionality, Z-Wave devices will require a gateway. The Insteon Scenes begin immediately. With Z-Wave, there is a minor but visible latency.

We at Franco’s electric are constantly looking for new innovations in the electrical world. When Insteon abruptly shut down, our experienced tech team had to find a solution for our precious customers, and through extensive research, and testing we can confirm that Insteon devices are working through Hoobs device which is acting as a bridge to control the automation at your home. This device works with the Apple home kit as well.

            To conclude we at Francos Electric hope that this article helps to clear your mind a little about how to proceed with your home automation after this sudden change. We are always happy to help with your electrical issues so feel free to contact us.

When you try to plug in your brand-new table saw, you realize that the aphorism has a
three-rounded draw, but your aunt’s home only has two- niche outlets. This isn’t an uncommon
problem, especially in aged homes and apartments
All major appliances have been needed to have three-rounded entrapments since 1969. At that
time, only about half of the outlets in the United States had three places. Also,
three-rounded entrapments have become the standard on numerous tools, electronic bias, and
appliances. While newer homes are generally wired to accommodate them, aged homes like
your Aunt Matilda’s frequently are not.
So, should you run to the original tackle store to buy a three-point appendage? Perhaps, but
determining two-to-three-point- appendage safety can be tricky. Although three- point
appendages, also known as “ cheater entrapments,” may feel like a quick and accessible fix,
there are variables to consider before choosing to use one.
When deciding whether to use a three-point appendage, one thing to consider is whether the
wiring that supplies power to the outlet can sufficiently handle the amps demanded to power
the appliance or device. In numerous cases, two- niche service was installed with
the cloth-insulated line that isn’t rated for numerous of the moment’s high-tech items. However, the
cables may heat, leading to a fire hazard or electric shock threat, If you use a high-amp
contrivance with a low-amp outlet.
To figure out what the cables can safely carry, take a quick trip to the fuse panel or swell box.
The number on the main swell or fuse will indicate your amp service. The minimum to reuse
moment’s average cargo is 100 amp service, but some aged homes or small lodges may only
have 30 amp service. Your circuit combers or fuses may be labeled by room position, too, in
which case you can determine the amp service to individual circuits. For illustration, 20 amp
circuits will generally be safe for utmost bias other than heavy-draw appliances like electric
ranges, dryers, and refrigerators. However, using a “ cheater” appendage draw – indeed for a short
time – isn’t a good idea, and three-point appendages should no way be used with major
appliances If the amp service is low.
Another consideration is whether the electrical box itself is predicated. Immaculately, the center
screw in an aged two-niche outlet will be predicated. Newer three-point appendages have a
screw tab that ensures contact directly to this predicated center screw. As long as an appendage
draw makes contact with a predicated screw, using a three-point appendage may be a fairly
safe option, at least in the short term.
Using an appendage with an ungrounded outlet increases the threat of serious electrical shock
or electrocution from defective or damaged products.
To find out if the box is predicated, use a container tester, also known as a multimeter. These
affordable biases are available at most tackle or home enhancement stores. Follow
manufacturer instructions to interpret the device’s readings. Generally, you need to check if the
light that corresponds to the ground line lights up weekly. Or, you can use a circuit tester to
insert one point into the “ hot” niche (the shorter niche). Touch the other point to the cover
plate screw. However, the tester will light up, If the box is predicated.
To epitomize, a three-point appendage is generally safe to use when plugged into a predicated
outlet, as long as the wiring is sufficient to handle the amp cargo, but it shouldn’t be a longterm
result.
Still, or are planning to use three- point appendages, you should be apprehensive of many other
risks, If you formerly use. In numerous cases, your homeowner’s insurance may not cover
injuries or fires performed from appliances that were plugged into three- point appendages.
And, product guarantees may be voided grounded on their use.